![['Byway of Agana' ---LRH. ]](img/pg29_1.jpg)
The old fetes or fiestas are still quite the thing. The native drink, “aguardiente” aids the former. These parties are given for weddings, deaths, or some church holiday. One evening Teddy, Harold and I took the notion into our heads that we would like to see what the natives of San Antonio, the tough end of town, were doing. On the outskirts we heard snatches of foolish songs and the blat of ancient and discrepant instruments. Teddy went ahead to reconnoiter and we followed. Finally we reached the shacks from which the supposed music was issuing. All about it stood natives that were rapidly losing their sense of balance.
Something whizzed out of the window and over my head to light with a crash. A “dead soldier.” A man came out of the low door and passed a box, containing the betel nut, among his guests. Then a guitar struck up a plaintive Spanish melody. It was readily joined by the accordion and saxophone, which had been responsible for the hideous racket that had first met our ears....
We soon found ourselves within the hot, frail structure of the nipi bahai. People in various stages of drunkenness were all about us. In the center of the tiny room stood the would-be music makers, while all about them reeled the dancers. In the corner sat the bride with her father on her left and her husband on her right....
A man reeled up to us with a handful of the inevitable betel nut. He did not like my looks so he started something and we lit out for home.
The religious faith of the Chamorro was regulated by the Spanish, who are Catholics. Catholicism has furnished them many superstitions as it has in the Philippines. Doctors who have studied them believe that “Tadamona” was invented to force the payment of church dues....
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